Best entry level 3D printers

This is slightly different to our usual blog posts, but my son recently helped his uncle with some research about which 3D printer he should get – just because he’s always wanted one (but hasn’t got a good reason to get one). And I thought I might as well share that information and research here…

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From what I’ve found, the brand to go for is Bambu Lab. However, there are still a few choices to make. They have 4 series(es?): the H2, A1, P and X1. The A1 is their cheapest line, but for you I would recommend P or, if you are willing to spend more, the H2.

The P2S and H2S are the top two in my eyes. Here’s how they stack up against each other:

Price: The H2S is £999, while the P2S is £479. That is a big difference I know, but you’ll see why. However, if you want to print in multiple colours you will need to buy the printer with an AMS (automatic multicolour system). The AMS combo for the H2S is £1,199, while the AMS combo for the P2S is £699.

Build Volume: This is the dimensions that the printer can print in one go. 

• For the P2S this is 256mm cubed, or 25.6cm cubed. 
• The H2S, however, can print 340mm by 320mm by 340mm. That is 34cm across, 32cm up and 34cm long. 
  

Don’t forget though that this is just for ease of use: you can still make big models with either, you would just have to print them in smaller parts and it would take more time and effort.

Filaments supported: This determines what materials each printer can print in. I’ll explain it more, but here’s just what the website says:

• P2S: PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, Support for PLA, Support for PLA/PETG, Support for ABS, PET, PA, PC, PVA, PLA-CF, PETG-CF, ABS-GF, ASA-CF, PA6-CF, PA6-GF, PAHT-CF, PPA-CF, PET-CF: Supported

• H2S: PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA: Optimal | ABS, ASA :Superior |PA, PC, PET: Superior| Carbon/Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer: Superior
  

Although the P2S supports many materials, that doesn’t mean they’ll all work easily. The H2S is designed to handle difficult and engineering-grade filaments with much less hassle, which makes it more beginner-friendly in the long run.

Cameras: This is the cool bit. While both printers have a “live view camera” (1920 by 1080p, timelapse supported), the H2S also has a “toolhead camera” (1600 by 1200). Not gonna lie, that sounds pretty cool. From what I’ve found, a toolhead camera is good for diagnosing failures and just provides a close up view of the nozzle.

Sensors: Both printers have these sensors: 

• Filament run-out sensor (it’s pretty obvious what that does)
• Filament tangle sensor (once again, that one explains itself) 
• Power loss recovery (this means if the printer loses power mid-print it can resume again from where it left off). 
  

However, this is where they split. 

• The P2S also has a Filament grinding sensor (which can just tell you if filament is being chewed, but only reacts after the problem starts). 
• On the other hand, if you buy the H2S with the AMS, then you get a filament odometry sensor. Now, apparently this is REALLY good. It measures filament movement and can detect slipping and clogs much earlier than a Filament grinding sensor.
  

Neither sensor is essential (without them, you’d just restart the print) but they can save a lot of time and expensive filament, especially on long prints. The odometry sensor is particularly good here.

Laser Cutting and Engraving (H2S only): Now, before I say anything, you should know that this will nearly double the cost of your H2S, making it £1,799 (a lot of money). However, if you pay this you get laser proof glass, a 10watt laser, a cutting module and, most of all, an extra camera (a bird’s eye 3264 by 2448p camera).

With the laser you can etch patterns onto wood, leather, acrylic, ect and even cut through thin materials. However, if you were really obsessed with a laser, you could buy a H2D laser combo, and get a 40 watt laser, though it would cost £2,649 (and that’s with it on sale!)

Overview: Honestly, I think:

• P2S: much cheaper, very capable, but may require more tweaking and might be more annoying to use
• H2S: more expensive, but easier to use, more powerful, (has an extra camera!) and is better for advanced materials
  

Links:

H2S: https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/h2s

P2S: https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/p2s

Comparison page: https://bambulab.com/en-gb/compare

(on the comparison page adjust it so that it is comparing the P2S and the H2S)

Below I have arranged the key facts into a table for easy reference. You’re welcome!

Printer:	P2S	H2S
Build Volume:	256mm, 256mm, 256mm	340mm, 320mm, 340mm
Price:	£479	£999
Price with AMS:	£699	£1199
Filaments Supported:	Lots, but maybe not well.	Lots, but supported easily and well.
Cameras:	Live View camera	Live View and Toolhead camera,(bird’s eye camera included with laser combo).
Sensors:	Basic sensors + filament grinding	Basic sensors + filament odometry (but only if you buy an AMS combo).

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My brother-in-law, who requested this review, then replied with these follow up questions:

So if I went for the “H2S AMS Combo”, when I go onto “buy” I get other options. Do I need any of these at this point?

Performance Accessories

• Vision Encoder (i’m guessing not)
• Bambu Hotend – H2/P2S (I assume it comes with one already. If so, what does it come with – or does this need purchasing separately?)

Must-Have Filaments (I know I’ll need these from somewhere, but is direct from Bambu the best place to get them, or is there a better/different supplier?)

Is there anything else I need to buy?

Answer:

From what I can see, it already comes with a  4mm  “all metal” hot end that can support most standard filament types. You would only need another if your first one stopped working and you didn’t want to have to stop printing to clean/replace it, or if you needed a different size (2mm for example). However, in your case I doubt you would really need anything more than the standard one to be honest. The vision encoder is for less than 0.1mm accuracy, so (as you said) I don’t think you will need that either. I will ask my friend at school tomorrow what filament he gets, but buying it from bambu labs might not be a bad idea because then you know that the filament was tested on that EXACT printer.

My friend said that he normally gets filament from bambu labs themselves because, while filament might be slightly cheaper elsewhere, he buys it from them just because it is really reliable and if you buy it in a bundle/deal apparently it is really well priced. You can always look elsewhere if you want to, but buying it from the same brand as you buy the printer would not be a bad idea.